Vintage Hair
Hairstyles for vintage enthusiasts
Pin Curl how to 
26th-Feb-2008 03:25 pm
Typewriter

Found here, forgive the constant mentioning of Christina A., it's still a useful tutorial.

Getting Started Notes

Model Danielle (shown to the side) has baby fine hair with a slight bend that barely brushes her shoulder tops.  r>
Danielle, like Christina, has chemically enhanced light blonde hair with a slight shadow of darker roots. Like Christina Danielle has a face shape that is mostly oval with a slightly squared jaw line.  Also like the famous rocker, Danielle has gorgeous eyes.

(Image of model Danielle above. Hair by Barbara Lhotan, photography by Eric Von Lockhart, copyright MMI and HairBoutique.com - all rights strictly reserved - 2004).


In order to create a spectacular transformation of Danielle to Christina's famous AMA curled hair appearance, celebrity stylist Barbara Lhotan meticulously applied pin curls to Danielle’s entire head. 

Although this same look, although looser, can be created with hot rollers, for a classic look like Christina's Barbara created Danielle’s curls the old fashioned way. 


It should be noted that this same look, although looser, can be created with hot rollers, for a classic look like Christina's 50s style curls, it is best to use pin curls and create the luscious curls the old fashioned way.

Creating Style At Home

When created correctly, this style may require the assistance of a skilled hairdresser. Why?  A truly great pin curled style like the one created for this article, involves lots of precision to achieve uniform curls. 

Keep in mind that when crafted properly, the style can take some time to finish. If you do decide to do the style at home be sure to have several practice runs before the night of the big hair event. 


More On Pin Curls

Pin curls are one of the most basic type of curls that has been around for years.  Not only has it been used for a long time, this popular type of curl cycles back into popularity on a regular basis as witnessed by Christina's recent appearance in the style.

(Image of Model Danielle courtesy of MultiMedia International - all rights reserved - hair by Barbara Lhotan, Photography by Eric Von Lockhart - 2004 - all rights  reserved).

Although pin curls can be used to curl an entire head of hair, like used in Christina's style, they are more often used to curl much smaller sections of a hairstyle.  Pin curls are also often used as "fill in" curls for an overall look.   Fill in curls are used in the areas between shaping that frame the face and run around the crown. They are ideal for creating fluffy bangs. They are also used for just the ends of the hair to unify an overall curl.

Pin curls are always created as a "wet set" on damp hair (newly shampooed or misted damp with a water bottle) and can be combined with other types of curls for a unique set.

Pin curls are either forward or reverse which means basically that they are either clockwise or counterclockwise.  Forward pin curls on the right side of the head are formed in a counterclockwise direction.  Forward curls on the left side of the head are formed in a clockwise direction.  

Best Styling Tips

This classic pin curl style works best for hair that is shoulder length or longer, medium in texture and either straight or pre-straightened. 
 

Regardless of your hair's texture, type or actual length, it is important to start with strands that are damp and dressed properly with the necessary styling products to help hold the finished set.  

 

(Image of Model Danielle courtesy of MultiMedia International - all rights reserved - hair by Barbara Lhotan, Photography by Eric Von Lockhart - 2004 - all rights  reserved).
 

Although Christina's style was designed with a short center part along with off-the-face side sweeps of hair to show off her beautiful oval shaped face and gorgeous eyes, a variety of different parts and bangs could easily be incorporated into a customized version. This style could also be worn without either.  

Before you start make sure that you have all the proper tools including plenty of hairpins, a good brush and comb.  If you wish to add hair accessories be sure you have them ready to be added to the style at the end.

Remember to use good styling sprays or similar products to give hair instant texture and stylability.    

Instructions - Steps To Create

Start by carefully separating your hair into equal sections approximately 1" in size.  Depending on your type or texture of hair, use the appropriate amount of styling products as you work on each section of hair to make sure that the finished set is not too soft and will hold the curls tightly.

To achieve the same uniformity of curl on both sides of the head, the technique used to form a curl on the right side of the head must be mechanically different from that used on the left side.  This is because you use the same hand to form curls on both sides of the head.  If you are right-handed, you always use your right hand.  If you are left-handed you use your left hand.  

The procedures described in the following sections are for right-handed people.  If you are left-handed, you should use the procedure given for the right side of the head on the left side and vice versa.  

Counterclockwise curls are formed away from your body position, whereas clockwise curls are formed toward your body position.  

Pin curls have the advantage of being fairly easy to create after a little practice so take your time and be patient.

Steps For Creating A Forward Clockwise Curl 

Starting on the left side of of your head, create a series of Clockwise Pin Curls that carefully extend from the front of the hairline back towards the nape of the neck. 

(Image of Model Danielle courtesy of MultiMedia International - all rights reserved - hair by Barbara Lhotan, Photography by Eric Von Lockhart - 2004 - all rights  reserved).

To recreate the same type of pin curls recreate the following steps: 

  1. Part off a section of damp, not wet, hair for the base of the curl. Apply a medium amount of styling gel.
  2. Insert the comb across the section strand.  Place the index finger of the left hand in the center of the strand and control the ends with the comb and the thumb of the right hand.
  3. Turn the comb down a quarter-turn forward so that the comb forms a twist at the base of the curl. Forming the pin curls is a lot like winding a piece of string into a ball.
  4. Use the end of the comb to ribbon, or stretch, the hair down along the index finger of the left hand.  
  5. Continue to ribbon the curl upward in a clockwise direction to form a circle.  Be sure that the very ends are inside the circle.

Note:  Be sure not to twist the hair as you wind it. Make sure that the ends are tucked inside of the curl, and curl is pinned right on top of it natural hair base. Do not pin the curl away from the base of the curl.

  1. Hold the circle with the index finger and thumb of the left hand and insert a pin curl clip across the curl to hold it in place securely.

Note:  Keep in mind that many people prefer the double prong clips for sleeping comfort. Under no circumstance should you use bobby pins which will form dents in the hair and may add to overall frizziness. 

Steps For Creating A Forward Counterclockwise Curl 

Once you have carefully created pin curls on the left side of your head, create a series of Counterclockwise Pin Curls that carefully extend from the front of the hairline back towards the nape of the neck on the right side. 

To recreate the same type of pin curls recreate the following steps: 

  1. Part off a section of damp, not wet, hair for the base of the curl. Apply a small amount of styling gel.
  2. Insert the comb across the section strand.  Place the index finger of the left hand in the center of the strand and control the ends with the comb and the thumb of the right hand.
  3. Begin to circle the strand forward with the comb while holding the base of the curl with the thumb and index finger of the left hand. Forming the pin curls is a lot like winding a piece of string into a ball.
  4. Use the end of the comb to ribbon, or stretch, the hair forward, turning it in a counterclockwise direction.  Be sure that the very ends of the strand are inside the circle.
  5. Hold the formed curl with the index finger and thumb of the left hand and insert a pin curl clip across the curl to hold it in place securely.

Removing Pin Curls

1.After you have carefully created the pin curls let them dry naturally in the air or sit under a hood style dryer until the curls are completely dry. 

Note:  If you have plenty of time to burn before you need to remove the curls, you will get a tighter set.

Pin curls are also easier to sleep in compared to the brush or large Velcro style rollers. Pin curls that are left in overnight create a longer and tighter set and they are good for a quick morning styling.

If you’re in a hurry, you can use a blow dryer with a diffuser attachment to dry out the pin curls.  Be careful to use the blow dryer on a slow speed, medium heat, to avoid over blowing the pin curls.
 

2.     Once the hair is completely dry, remove the clips and use fingers to gently pull, fluff and arrange the curls in the desired pattern.

For more volume of a big hair look, use a boar’s head bristle brush (like Mason Pearson, Kent or similar) to gently brush out the curls in a uniform direction.  Use your fingers to help pull out and direct the curls. 
 

      If you wish, you can carefully sculpt the sides with a comb.  However, keep in mind that the more you fuss with the new curls, the softer they will become.

Keep in mind that if some of the curls are not as tightly curled as you would like, you can use a hot curling iron to touch up any straggler strands.
 

3.   Apply a drop or two of a shine serum like Phyto's PhyoLisse, Rene Furterer's Spray Gloss or Robert Hallowell's Love That Shine Drops to the palms of your hands.


Rub the serum into the palms and then lightly glide over the top of the style to add instant shimmer and shine.  Spray well with hairspray like Phytolaque or Jessica Simpson’s favorite Phytolaque Soie made with real silk to give an extra glossy look to the style.
 

4.   Attach any desired hair accessory to the finished style.  Because this is such a glamorous style, if accessories are added, they should be small to avoid detracting from the incredible beauty of this classic pin curled style.

Note: Remember to always attach accessories last after all styling products have been applied to avoid damaging delicate accessories. 
 

5.   Finish with a good application of hairspray for long term hold.  Ones to try: Rene Furterer Instant Hold Finishing Spray Robert Hallowell's Rawhold Hairspray

Comments 
26th-Feb-2008 08:56 pm (UTC)
this might be a silly question, but i don't have any of those metal clips and i'm wondering if bobby pins would work?
if not, where can i get those metal clips? (i've never seen them anywhere) and, how much to they go for?
26th-Feb-2008 09:05 pm (UTC)
bobby pins work but can leave creases in your hair which is why people use those metal clips instead. they are available at sally's beauty supply and I would assume most beauty supply stores.
26th-Feb-2008 09:06 pm (UTC)
I personally bought pin curl clips a Sally Beauty supply, but I've seen them in places like walmart and most drug store. You can alos but them at Amazon

bobby pins work but sometime ( most of the time in my experience) leave little ridges.

26th-Feb-2008 09:38 pm (UTC)
thank you so much!
26th-Feb-2008 09:11 pm (UTC)
Thank you so much for posting this! I can't wait to try it out :)
26th-Feb-2008 10:32 pm (UTC)
Thanks! But the model looks really sullen, doesn't she? :D
26th-Feb-2008 11:15 pm (UTC)
she looks drugged in the second to last pic, haha!
27th-Feb-2008 12:04 am (UTC)
thats a fab post
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